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Saturday, January 29, 2011

Como se dice Breakfast?


Take Away - Grit Cake

I love waking up and going to breakfast in New Orleans, but there is one problem....so does everyone else.  Couple this with the unspoken rule that all residents and tourists are required to frequent the same 8 establishments, and you got yourself one hell of a line.  The irony here is that most self respecting New Orleanians would never frequent a bar with a velvet rope policy, but they will wait until noon to eat eggs.

Well, I am throwing another option into the breakfast mix.  It is newer than some of the old standbys and the line is slowly starting to form, but it is still possible to get breakfast before the lunch bell rings.



Huevos is located in mid-city right next to its sister restaurant, Crescent Pie and Sausage Company.  Mollie discovered it and took me this morning because she knows I am loco for Mexican breakfast.  Below is a picture of a portion of the breakfast menu, which is conveniently painted on the wall.  I chose "the blue jay special," composed of eggs, cheese, chorizo sausage and charred salsa all rolled into a tortilla.  It was only five dollars and delicious.  Lucky for my waistline (too late), I resisted the urge to order another one, mostly because I turned my attention to helping Mollie finish with her selection (more on that in a minute). . . 



The first morning special was Chorizo Gravy and Biscuits.  Since I blacked out and sampled one of the biscuits, I can only assume that adding gravy to these mountainous homemade concoctions is bueno.


   
The second special took the prize.  Mollie heard the words "grit cakes" and immediately ordered.  They came with a variety of other ingredients, but the dish did not really have a specific name.  So, I'll utilized the following equation to further explain:

   Grit cakes
+ Chisesi ham
+ poached eggs
+ poblano jalapeno cream sauce
= Holy Shitake That's Delicious.

I'm no mathmatician, but that is a solid equation.

The final special was Angel Food Pain Perdu with Balsamic Peppered Strawberry Sauce. To the non-foodie or unadventurous breakfast eater, Pain Perdu is a form of French toast. It is called "lost bread" because the preparation method involves a way to reclaim stale or "lost" bread. The bread is softened by dipping it in a mixture of milk and eggs, and then frying it. Yes and yes.



Huevos Rancheros with Charred Tomato Salsa and Black Beans
The manager of the place, Blair, told me that the strawberries came fresh from a local farm and arrived shortly before we did. I wanted to stay and get lost with the strawberries and the bread, but Mollie advised that it would be too much. I reluctantly agreed.



We bid "adios" to Blair and Huevos, but promised to return another day.  
I don't have the recipe for this morning's concoction, but I found a pretty good recipe for grit cakes with shrimp on top . . .  This one has not yet been tested, but looks really good.

Shrimp Cakes covered with Cheesy Shrimp

•3 (14-ounce) cans chicken broth
•1 1/3 cups quick-cooking grits
•1/2 cup grated Parmesan
•1/2 teaspoon salt
•2 tablespoons butter, melted
•8-ounce package cream cheese, softened
•1 tablespoon half-and-half
•1/2 cup grated Italian cheese blend
•1 teaspoon chopped parsley leaves
•1/2 pound cooked, peeled, and deveined shrimp, chopped
•1/2 cup grated Cheddar

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Bring broth to a boil in a large saucepan. Stir in grits, and return to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer 5 minutes, or until grits are thickened, stirring occasionally. Stir in cheese and salt. Remove from heat. Spoon grits into a greased 9 by 13-inch baking pan. Cover, and chill at least 2 hours, or until firm. Un-mold grits onto a large cutting board. Cut out 48 (1 1/2-inch) circles using a round or fluted cookie cutter.

Brush a large jellyroll pan with melted butter. Place grit rounds on pan. Bake for 15 minutes. Turn grits, and bake 45 minutes more. Set aside. (Up to this point, the recipe can be prepared ahead. If preparing early, cover and refrigerate grit rounds until you are ready to top with shrimp mixture).

In a large bowl, combine cream cheese and half-and-half, stirring until combined. Stir in cheese, parsley, and shrimp. Top each grits round evenly with shrimp mixture. Top mixture with grated Cheddar. Broil 5 minutes, or until lightly browned and heated through.




Sunday, January 2, 2011

New Year's Resolution?....Brie with you in a minute.

 
Take Away
Fried Oysters with Brie

Resolutions for this New Year have now been established.  One of mine is to become more vigilant about posting on the theKingfish.  How that will gel with the resolution to lose weight remains to be seen.  In the meantime, the New Year's Eve dining, celebrating and friends that led to this post were inspirational.


Scallops with Foie Gras and Port Reduction

Lobster and Mushroom Risotto

Filet Mignon with Bernaise

Our first of three stops happened to be the location where we engaged in the majority of our consumption (of food).  Clancy's is very much a restaurant that does not often hit the tourist radar.  This is likely because it is situated so far Uptown and obscured by the sizable mortgages in the neighborhood that surrounds it.  The building itself is very cozy and feels as if you are walking into someone's home.  I recommend sitting downstairs because it puts you in the most mix of people and near the entrance and the bar.  For a quieter dining experience, upstairs is the way to go. 


Mollie and I joined a group that were very well versed in the menu, and we all immediately commenced to the business of ordering drinks and appetizers.  It was very impressive that the restaurant was serving a full menu on New Year's Eve.  However, the waiter looked like he was going to have a serious talk with management about reconsidering next year (his behavior resembled how I can only imagine a Pomeranian would act if administered large quantities of amphetamines).     

We all enjoyed our food, but I think that Beau Haynes won with his order of the fried oysters with brie (recipe below). Also, the icebox pie is really one of the few desserts that I will order at a restaurant.  Some of the other menu highlights included: the Grilled Lamb Chops Webster; Lobster Risotto with Mushrooms; Clancy's Crabmeat Salad; Seared Sea Scallops with Foie Gras and Port Reduction; Filet (any way they serve it) and the Roast Duck.  Additionally, Clancy's also usually offers very delicious specials that are recommendable.  This night was no different.  However, it is now cloudy as to what the specials were. . . Honestly, the overwhelming food and drink are responsible for the following photos that went somewhat Pink Floyd. 

 
Jen Labourdette and Christian Burck
 
Katie and Richard Voorhies

Leigh and JG

Jessie and Beau Haynes

Fueled by good food and drink, Mollie and I headed to the French Quarter for our friend Danielle Doiron's birthday party at Somethin' Else Cafe.  Venturing into the Quarter on New Year's Eve is considered by some to be borderline insane.  However, this party was well worth it and allowed us to take celebration to the next level. 


Birthday Girl, Danielle Doiron

Danielle, Mollie and Melissa Gebbia

Mollie and Me












Danielle and Walt Leger

Me and Walt














We arrived much after the initial crowd had whipped itself into a frenzy.  People were dancing together (and by themselves in some cases) in every corner of the place.  Two bartenders were surrounded by people putting in orders.  One of the bartenders worked diligently while the other seemed to be sticking to the "one for you, two for me" motto.  Either way, it was entertaining to watch.  We rang in the new year with our friends at stop number two and then were on our way...

We next arrived at Alton and Allison Ashey's for stop number three.  Their place is located on top of Restaurant August and gave a great (and thankfully removed) view of the mass exodus leaving the Quarter.  Since we had just braved the same battle on foot, Mollie put the kibosh on any further photography (citing humidity).  Considering the lateness of the hour, I agreed.  We instead focused on closing out 2010 (photo free) while enjoying some wine with good friends.

Looking forward to more food, friends and posts in 2011.

Danielle wishing us good luck in the New Year.

Recipe for Fried Oysters with Brie

1 dozen shucked Louisiana Oysters
Paul Prudhomme's Seafood Magic
1 cup flour
1/2 cup vegetable oil
4-ounce wheel of Brie, cut into 12 equal slices
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 pound fresh spinach, washed and stemmed

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Pat the oysters dry.  Season the oysters with the seafood magic.  Season the flour with the seafood magic or Tony's Chachere's seasoning.  In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil.  Dredge the oysters in the flour, shaking off the excess. Pan-fry the oysters for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown.  Drain on paper towels. Place the oysters on a baking sheet.  Lay a slice of the brie on top of each oyster.  Bake for approximatel 2 to 3 minutes or until the brie melts.

In a saute pan, over medium heat, add the olive oil. When the olive oil is hot, add the shallots and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Saute for 1 minute. Add the spinach and saute for 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. To serve, mound the spinach in the center of each plate. Arrange 3 oysters around each mound of spinach and serve warm.




Friday, November 19, 2010

Laissez les bons temps BEAUSOLEIL!!!


Take Away - Shrimp and Risotto Fritters

A new restaurant is always a welcomed addition to Baton Rouge.  Since 2005, the population (and traffic) has skyrocketed rather quickly while the (non-chain) restaurant selection has taken a little longer to catch up.  However, the latest endeavor by a few seasoned restaurateurs will absolutely go a long way in helping balance the karma of population with food selection.  Jeff Conaway and Nathan Gresham, formerly of Galatoire's Bistro, and Michael Boudreaux and Kenny Juban, both of Juban's Creole Restaurant, have combined forces to bring a real restaurant contender to the Red Stick...

With Beausoleil, there commeth a food destination that offers three extremely important qualities to this fat man: 1) excellent food, 2) reasonable prices and 3) a comfortable spot to place my rather large rear end.

When translated into classic French, Beausoleil means "lovely sun."  In Cajun French, it means "sunshine."  Either way, this restaurant is providing a new ray of light to the Baton Rouge dining scene.

Jeff's wife (and our friend) Camille, was nice enough to invite some friends from the 4th floor of the Capitol to taste some of the trial run treats that the restaurant had to offer on opening night.


Stephen and Colleen Waguespack with Kristy Nichols

The tasting menu included: Fried Oysters with creamy truffle vinaigrette; Duck Confit and baby arugula in phyllo with goat cheese; Mussels Bienvielle; Crabcakes with a spicy aioli; Fried Green Tomatoes topped with a tasting of hogshead cheese; Escargot in puff pastry with brie; Shrimp and Risotto Fritters and fresh pork and duck cracklins.


Melissa Sellers, Kyle Plotkin, Anna Dearmon and Jeff Conaway
 

Nial Patel and Camille Conaway

Did I just type fresh pork cracklin?  Yes.  In fact, upon your seating at this unique establishment, you will not be greeted by standard bread and butter that has seen the refrigerator one too many times.  No sir (or ma'am)!!!  Instead, you will be treated to a tasting of warm pork cracklin.  Sugar bust that!

The lunch menu is not extremely long (which I like), but certainly runs the range of options.  Some examples of choices are:  Grilled Leg of Rabbit over stewed collard greens then finished with a garlic confit bacon jus ; House-made Biscuit with Boneless Fried Chicken Breast topped with country sausage gravy; Fried Mississippi Catfish topped with a rich tomato court-bouillion stew served over rice and (thankfully) Grits and Grillades.  Also...the side dishes range from Duck Confit Hash to Crispy Onion Rings to Bacon.  I'm not kidding.

Hogshead Cheese atop Fried Green Tomatoes
Warm Cracklins
















Dinner takes it to the next level with Grilled Jumbo Shrimp over roasted bell pepper risotto with andouille gravy; Marinated Grilled Flat Iron Steak with frites and chimichurri butter or Flattened and Grilled Chicken Paillard with bacon lardon, crispy shallot rings and sliced tomatoes with lemon caper beurre blanc on a bed of baby spinach.

Escargot in Puff Pastry with Brie

In total, it is like several of New Orleans' better restaurant concepts formed a cult and fled to Baton Rouge where no one would ever find them. . . 



Well, we did. . . Since its opening, Beausoleil has been a packed spot for people looking to eat.  However, seating happens rather quickly and the food is definitely worth it.  The bar is a great place to wait as well, since there is no real barrier between the bar, the high top tables and the rest of the restaurant.  Thus, you feel like you are already a part of the flock, even while wetting you beak. 


So, friend, my advice to you with regard to this French Fulgor is to eat early and/or eat often.  Either way, just get there and eat.  It's gewd.

Will be getting Jeff and/or Camille to get me this recipe for the Shrimp and Risotto Fritters ASAP.  Thus, standby.... 

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Tranquility brought me back!!


Take Away - Broadwell Smoked Brisket
I acknowledge that it has been too long since a new entry and recipe.  Truth be told, I have been a bit busy and neglected the site.  However, a recent visit to a friend's family "place" (coupled with the food that we ate) was enough to breathe life back into thekingfishmenu.  The commeth of the recent cold spell inspired a tribute to the last days of pool life, BBQ and the dawg days of summer..
James Melchers launching his wife's dog into the pool at Tranquility

Jay Broadwell and I became friends shortly after were introduced a few years ago by our buddy, Zach Materne.  A group of us used to sit out on Zach's porch every Tuesday (Stoopday) evening and solve the world's problems over a few beers.  Though the event became extremely well attended, we eventually fell out of practice.  These days, Jay and I see each other most frequently when we tailgate together for Saints games.

To rectify the sometimes infrequent visits, Jay and his wife Anne invited a group of regular tailgating friends to Jay's family "place on the water."  All I had to hear was the word "water," and I was in... so I did not quite catch everything that Jay said when he invited us.

I heard something about about "at Tranquility" and "outside of Slidell."  Thus, I assumed we were heading to some sort of waterfront neighborhood area.  Neither Mollie nor I minded that we would probably be in cramped quarters with so many people staying at someone's family camp.  We were obviously in for a surprise....

Mollie and I arrived at Jay's on a Friday evening, after first thinking that we were totally lost.  We passed a neighborhood or two, but could not find the house number.  My GPS kept telling me that the neighborhood was supposed to be in a certain spot, but all that was there was a large iron gate with no house in site.  Finally, we called Jay. He told us to pull up to the iron gate. . .

As it turns out, "Tranquility" is not a neighborhood.  Tranquility is over 200 acres that Jay's family owns.  Upon that acreage, there sits an iron gate at the front of the property.  Behind that iron gate winds a very very very long driveway.  At the end of that driveway sits a very impressive 4 bedroom house.  Next to that impressive 4 bedroom house sits an EXTREMELY impressive brick pit that is certainly capable of cooking a full size pig.  This was the start to a good weekend.

It was not until later that I truly realized that the impressive 4 bedroom house was actually not the main house at Tranquility.  The larger main house revealed itself the next morning when I stepped out onto the balcony of the "pool house" in which we were staying.  To say the least, the place was not tiny, and it came complete with tennis courts, gardens, extremely strange looking chickens, riding trails, motorcycles and a shooting range.
Jay Broadwell taking a break from brisket preparation
    
Jena showing off her shooting skills

Captain Materne losing control of his vehicle
However, to be honest, it was the food and the company that made the weekend.  Eighteen of us (plus four dogs) swam, shot, rode boats and bikes, cooked, drank and ate.  The menu consisted of everything delicious and nothing good for you:  crawfish pies, shrimp pasta, red rice with mushrooms, hashbrown casserole, macaroni and cheese, emergency quesadillas (late night), Jenna's fantastic bacon biscuits and.....some of the best brisket I have ever tasted!!




















I am not really sure how everyone actually functioned after eating the amount of food that we cooked. I can only surmise that the adrenaline from running and swimming around the adult theme park fueled the the group's appetite beyond normal capacity.

By the time the Saints game kicked off on Sunday afternoon, the guns and sounds of ATVs had silenced, as everyone began to settle into somewhat of a food coma.  On a scale of 1 to 10, I give the weekend an 11. 

The latest addition to the Materne family was still going at kickoff
Trooper Bruce having a good time on his birthday weekend

Before we get to the recipe, I have to thank Jason Van Haverbeke for taking all of these fantastic pictures.  Mollie and I are actually planning on using a picture he recently took of us as a holiday card.  I truly wish we would have thought of using him for our wedding.  Jason's company is VH PhotoGraphix, his website is http://www.vanhavephoto.com/ and his contact information is jason@vanhavephoto.com.

Broadwell's Smoked Brisket
  • Untrimmed select brisket (size does not matter)
  • Lea and Perrins Worcestershire sauce
  • Garlic Powder
  • Onion Powder
  • Cayenne Powder
  • Pam
  • Seasoning Salt or Tony Chachere's
Trim some of the fat from the brisket until it is around 1/4 of an inch.  Score both sides with 1 inch wide lines. Work a generous amount of Worcestershire sauce into the meat. Thereafter, layer (in this order) a coating of garlic powder then onion powder then cayenne powder.  Utilize the Pam for adhesion. Note:  The Pam will bubble, but it is not a problem.  Finish with seasoning salt or Tony Chachere's.  Thereafter, manually work all of the wet rub into the score lines so that both sides of the meat are evenly coated.

Smoke fat side down over indirect heat for 1.5 hrs per lb using water logged mesquite and water oak (Jay says that the ideal temperature for smoking is below 150).  Thereafter, place the smoked meat in a pan with 2 inches of water.  Cover and cook at 220 degrees for three to four hours until tender. Slice thin against the grain using water as marinade.

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Beverly Hogs 90210



Take Away - Cochon de Lait Sandwiches

Today is September 2, 2010.  To many, that may seem like just another day in the year of our Lord, 2010.  However, to those of us who were not in a coma during the 1990's, the numeric significance of today is a little more important....I'll explain more. . .

Written out in pure number form, today is 9/02/10 or 90210


Yes that's right, 90210!  To those of you who had even a portion of your youth occur during the 1990's, the theme song to a certain television show (which stimulated the obsession of every teenager in the country) may be running through your head at this moment.  And please, don't deny it.... 

Today is a day that inspires you to think back to your old friends at West Beverly High and the drama that inspired a nation to whip out tapered acid wash jeans, roll up its t-shirt sleeves and/or put on some flannel Tommy Hilfiger shirts and Z Cavaricis or Girbauds. 



I may sound crazy at this moment, but you know (if you think long and hard) that you can name about 10 things in your house from the 90's that should have been thrown away with Y2K. 

HOWEVER, deep down in places you don't like to talk about, you always wanted to have the chance to wear these throwback items again. Well, now is your chance. . .   

My friends Becker Hall and Rene Louapre were acutely aware that this day would come, and they have decided to take full advantage of its significance with a charity event that is not to be missed!!  It is called the Beverly Hogs 90210 Party.

Becker and Rene invite all of us to a 90's costume party like no other, and they have convinced the owners of Lucy's (New Orleans) to turn the upstairs into the Peach Pit After Dark.  I am not making this up.  Admission is free and Lucy's will be running drink specials with a portion of the proceeds to go towards Hogs For The Cause, a fantastic charity that raises money for pediatric cancer.  In fact, if you respond that you will attend the event on the following website, Lucy's will donate more money per head.
http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=139244409447139&ref=mf

Let me tell you a little about Hogs for the cause.  In the latter half of 2008, Becker contacted Rene about roasting a hog.  This may sound like a spontaneous request, but Becker was waxing nostalgic for his college days when a cochon de lait (suckling pig roast) was a regular occurrence at his fraternity house during football season.  Coincidentally, Rene was already on the same page.  Being quite the chef, Rene was fully ready to once again feed the masses via el gordo cerdo.


Thus, the barrister and the investment banker struck a pretty simple and symbiotic win-win agreement.  Rene would cook the pig to feed the masses, and Becker would watch and consume massive amounts of alcohol.

A month later, the two started thinking about the uniqueness of the event and decided that they really should try to have a charitable ambition in mind and really evolve this idea into a non-profit.  Within days, Hogs For The Cause was created.
The name was unusual, but the cause noble.

In its first year Hogs for the Cause raised close to $10,000 for pediatric cancer patients.  Specifically, Becker and Rene were focused on Ben Sarrat Jr., who had just been diagnosed with a rare form of pediatric brain cancer.  Hogs donated all of the proceeds to the Ben Sarrat Jr. Fund. Along with an amazing response from attendees, Becker and Rene's relationship with Ben Jr. and the Sarrat family strengthened their education on pediatric cancer and became the the impetus to really progress Hogs For The Cause to the next level.

Rene (left) and Becker (right) with Ben Sarrat, Jr.

In its second year, Hogs reached out and included more of the community. The pig roast was opened to competitors from the city, state and region.  Over 27 teams competed for the title of Louisiana’s Pork Cook-Off Champion.  Teams were not only judged on their food, but also on how much money they could raise. The competitive desire to win led to initiatives such as one team creating a Lombardi Trophy made out of bacon and charging for people to take a photo with it.  Not a joke.  Hogs was able to raise close to $30,000.

Bacon Lombardi Trophy

Sadly, Ben lost his fight with his form of pediatric cancer a week before the 2010 event was to take place. However, the passing of their young friend only furthered Becker and Rene's resolve to do all they could to help families who are forced to handle such an immense burden.

The mission is now more defined and simple, to use Hogs for the Cause to help relieve the economic burdens imposed on families whose children are undergoing treatment.  Hogs now aims to become the premier funding source for pediatric cancer outreach services in the United States. In working towards this goal, Becker and Rene are shooting to raise revenues in excess of $300,000 in 2011. 

The 90210 event tonight will give Hogs a chance to warm up for their ambitious and fantastic 2011 fundraising season.  It will also give you a chance to really be a part of something fantastic whilst pulling out those "terrible clothes" that your wife has been telling you need to go in the garbage (sorry Mollie).

So come join Becker, Rene, Brandon & Brenda Walsh, Kelly Taylor, Donna Martin, Dylan McKay, Steve Sanders, David Silver and Andrea Zuckerman as we jam to 1990's songs with the Lucy's Crew and raise money for an extremely noble cause.  And please, don't bring any of these people...



Doors open at 5 p.m.  For more information, email Becker at becker@hogsforthecause.org.


Cochon del Lait Sandwiches (courtesy of John Folse)

This is totally cheating, but when you don't have a whole hog on hand...it works. Try this recipe with either pork butt or a fresh pork ham cut to size by your local butcher. Cooking times will vary depending on the size of the roast. Just remember to cook until fork tender. Cooking the pork one day in advance helps.

1 (5-6 pound) pork butt
6 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup sliced green onions
1/8 tsp thyme
1/8 tsp basil
1 tsp salt
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1 jalapeƱo pepper, chopped
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 onion, quartered
2 ribs celery, chopped
1 carrot, chopped

Preheat oven to 375°F. In a small mixing bowl combine garlic, green onions, thyme, basil, salt and peppers. Using a paring knife, pierce eight (1-inch) holes evenly across the roast and fill each with an equal amount of seasoning mixture. Season the roast completely on the outside with additional salt. In a 12-quart Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Brown roast on all sides. Add onions, celery and carrots. Cover pot, place in oven and bake 2½-3 hours or until fork tender. When the roast is tender, remove the cover and brown 15-20 minutes. The next day, slice meat and serve on bread for a delicious pork sandwich.